CPUs for the meeting, reflected in the window of a Soho specialist in mod paraphernalia, are a fresh Fruit T-shirt, her black Buzz Rickson’s MA-1, anonymous black skirt from a Tulsa thrift, the black leggings she’d worn for Pilates, black Harajuku schoolgirl shoes. Her purse-analog is an envelope of black East German laminate, purchased on eBay if not actual Stasi-issue then well in the ballpark.
She sees her own gray eyes, pale in the glass, and beyond them Ben Sherman shirts and fishtail parkas, cufflinks in the form of the RAF roundel that marked the wings of Spitfires.
CPUs. Cayce Pollard Units. That’s what Damien calls the clothing she wears. CPUs are either black, white, or gray, and ideally seem to have come into this world without human intervention.
What people take for relentless minimalism is a side effect of too much exposure to the reactor-cores of fashion. This has resulted in a remorseless paring-down of what she can and will wear. She is, literally, allergic to fashion. She can only tolerate things that could have been worn, to a general lack of comment, during any year between 1945 and 2000. She’s a design-free zone, a one-woman school of anti whose very austerity periodically threatens to spawn its own cult.
Real People: Texture over Pattern
Bold graphic pattern is an easy way to make men’s clothing interesting, since, as a whole, the cut of what we wear is circumscribed within a pretty tight space by traditions and what’s socially acceptable (otherwise we’d all be draped in sumptuous velvet). However, complementary tones and texturally complex fabrics can be quietly interesting without the brashness of wild patterns.
Nam in Jersey City consistently wears simple, clean-lined shapes in cool tones of blue, gray, and stone, and differentiates them with chambray, linen, flecked wool, and open-weave cotton knits. (The cardigan he’s wearing in the upper right photo is especially awesome; beware the air tie, though—an advanced maneuver for sure.) I like the way he wears a consistent pant length either by hemming or rolling to ankle length. It’s flattering and has the added benefit of showing off some suede shoes and matte white sneakers.
EG / EG / Gap / Walkover
Guest post by Bu
Uniqlo / Uniqlo x Leur Logette / Steven Alan / Madewell
RVLT / Uniqlo / Naked & Famous / GATs
Sleeves need shortening
TOJ / Uniqlo / Japan Blue / Clarks
Stephen Schneider / Uniqlox2 / Common Projects
TOJ / Uniqlo / Japan Blue / GATs